Cutting mat warped sitting too long in the car window or too close to the iron? Place on a baking sheet and put in the oven on 200 degrees until flat. For large mats, place on a metal sheet in the sun until flat. Allow to cool flat.

Rub a Rubber Cement Pick-up (found in art supply stores) across your mat like an eraser to clean up the little fibers of fabric embedded in your mat.

After threading your needle, pull it through a new fabric softener sheet before quilting with it. The thread will twist and tangle a lot less while quilting.

Cut an extra wide elastic band into pieces a couple of inches long. Use these to pull a stubborn needle through when hand quilting.

Take your batting out of the bag and open it up a day or so before you sandwich your quilt. This lets the batting relax and will lay out so much easier.

When applying borders, measuring and pinning is essential. Do not just use a long piece and cut it off after sewing. Measure the length you need (in the center of the quilt) and then cut the exact length. Pin all the way to the end for sewing. This results in less seam and fabric distortion.

Needles are made by a stamping process. This causes the eye to be a bit "larger" on one side. So, turn that needle around and the thread will go through easier.

After purchasing new fabric and before washing it, cut a small bit off the corners. Not only does this sometimes help to prevent your fabric from fraying while being washed, but it also tells you later when you go to use it that it has been washed.

After purchasing new fabric, take a small swatch and attach it directly to your receipt which lists the store from which you purchased it, as well as the name/identification number of the fabric. In the future, when you want to purchase more of that fabric, you will know at which store you purchased it and be able to give the exact name when asking for it (or even ordering it on-line). Then just keep all your receipts in a file of some sort for easy access.

When spraying spray adhesive, put the material your spraying into a large box and spray it in there. This confines the spray and fumes.

Spray a small puddle of spray adhesive onto a piece of freezer paper or wax paper and drag the end of your pearl cotton through the puddle. This will cause the end to become stiff, allowing you to thread a needle with a lot more ease. Suggestion: do several threads this way while you have the "pool" of adhesive, doing it before the "pool" dries up.

When doing needle turn applique spray a little adhesive glue into a small container and use a q tip to apply to the fabric as you are turning it under and you will not have to worry about pinning the fabric.

I really enjoy hand piecing, but I have yet to find a marking tool that I really like. In lieu of marking on the quilt, I have begun using freezer paper pattern pieces that I iron directly onto the fabric. I cut out 1/4 inch beyond the edge of the paper, and then I sew the pieces right along the edge. I have also found that you can print your pattern pieces directly onto the paper, saving lots and lots of time tracing the shapes.

Sew your label into the seam that sews on the binding. This way, there are only two sides to hand sew and it is more difficult to for the label to be removed. Also, put your initials on the seam allowance of the binding.

Anyone can do anything: One step at a time.

The bad news is that time flies; the good news is that you are the navigator!

Do your pins snag the fabric of your applique piece? Pin from the back!

I use old thread spools to keep ribbon and other fancy embellishments wrapped around so it's easier to work with.

Paper piecing? Try using a light weight interfacing instead of paper.

When my thimble is too large for my finger (large in the morning and Just fits at nite), I just wet my quilting finger and the thimble stays on indefinitely.

Buy a 'guitar pick' and use it on the finger under the quilt to stop from getting pricked.

When you have to match seams, use a dab of fabric glue (tube or stick) within the seam allowance instead of pins. From the right side, you'll be able to clearly see whether the seams match _ no pins in the way. The bond is not instant so you'll have time to separate the pieces and try again if necessary. Then stitch away.

My tip is to use a q-tip to clean lint from your bobbin area - it won't scratch your machine and lint will cling to the q-tip to be removed easily.

When I am sewing small quilt pieces, I have a corkboard on the wall just behind my machine, it allows me to pin up pieces in order. I take the pieces down when its time to sew them. I find this very useful so I don't have them stacked on my desk. Also it allows me to pin notes above my machine that I can see at a glance.

Do you have a stack of sample blocks or blocks that you did not use? I did and decided to cut smaller blocks and make hot pads. Sometime I could get the front and back of the hotpad from one block. Had a lot of crazy quilt blocks an they made very pretty hotpads. These make nice gifts.

Purchase a clear repositionable book cover from the stationary department of your favorite store to mark you cutting lines or template on your rotary cutter rulers. They stick fine and can be moved around or taken off very easily. These come in lots of pretty colors and are pretty reasonable in cost.

I use the rectangular teflon glides that go under furniture legs and secure them with blue painters tape to the bed of my vintage machines as a good 1/4 inch guide. It is easily removed and doesn't get in the way while sewing.

When you are making 1/2 square triangles always sew a SCANT 1/4 inch (rather than a regular 1/4 inch) from the center diagonal line so that the fabric will have a bit more room to flip over when you press it. Most times you can cut your initial squares a FULL 1 inch larger (rather than the standard 7/8 inch) and then just trim them down to the finished size + 1/2 inch for the seams allowances. Easier 'math' and better to be too big and trim down, than to end up being too small.

I make lots of miniature quilts and how I hang them without damaging the walls is by using Poster Tape - available where regular scotch tape is sold. You use it on painted walls and wallpaper. I am always changing my quilts throughout the year and rearranging so this is the best way to hang them.

After basting your quilt, roll the backing edges over the batting and pin to the quilt. This will enclose the excess batting and help to defray snagging or picking up unwanted stray threads.

For handy storage of quilt projects: buy new (never used) pizza boxes, either from a supply house or carry out pizza store. These boxes store flat, but once folded into shape will hold an entire set of quilt blocks. They stack nicely, and you can write what the project is: right on the box. They are small enough to carry along in the car or wherever. I even add embroidery thread, thread, needles, scissors or whatever for an all in one project box. You could also use a large ziploc bag.

Use a pipe cleaner to de-fuzz your machine. Unlike some brushes, they do not leave bristles!!

I bought some surface savers used to protect your furniture or keep things from sliding. They are little round felt disks with a sticky surface on the back. I got mine at the dollar store, but you can find these in department stores or probably office supply stores. I applied one in each corner of the ruler and the ruler would not slide at all when I tried.

When washing your material to test for coloring fastness.....put in a plain piece of muslin.....even if the water turns color it doesn't mean that the dye will run.....but, if the muslins picks up the color then you will know that it will attach itself to other fabric.

When clipping threads or ripping out seams, have a piece of batting to put the clippings on and they won't stick to your fingers.

When I am machine piecing tiny squares onto another square for diagonal sewing, I always iron the smaller square to the matching corner, then turn to my sewing machine and sew. Ironing keeps the tiny square in place and if I have cut the proper measurement, my corners come out neat and crisp every time.

When foundation piecing, use removable tape to hold the fabric onto the paper. Please be sure to remove the tape before pressing. The tape can be reused several times before discarding.

I keep my water bottle with the pull on cap next to my ironing board, less messy for refilling the water when I am in a quilting frenzy.

When turning tiny pieces you've sewn try a hemostat. To keep edges from unraveling Dritz Fray Check is wonderful. Rounded Japanese chopsticks are great for stuffing appliqué or piping.

The boxes sold in craft and fabric store to hold photos make a great way to store the fabric and patterns for quilts. The label in the front makes for easy identification and they can be stacked for storage.

To separate embroidery floss without tangling: Cut whatever length of floss you need. All six strands. With your left hand, hold the strands at the top. With your right hand, separate just the top of one strand. Now with your right hand holding the one strand at the top, squeeze your two fingers on left hand holding the remaining five strands. Pull the one strand out keeping your fingers kind of tight on the other and it should slide right out.

To put a spark in your quilt, use a bit of yellow or black.

If you cant be kind, be vague.

After a project is completed, take the time to clean the fuzz and lint from your sewing machine. Apply a bit of oil to the bobbin case, and treat your machine to a new needle. When it is time to start a new project, your machine will be ready to go.

Preload needles before beginning a quilting session by sliding several needles onto the wire of a needle threader, inserting the thread through the threader and pulling the needles down the thread on the spool. When you need a threaded needle, just cut off the appropriate length of thread with one needle on it, leaving the rest of the needles hanging on the spool.

Gray thread is a great neutral color for piecing.

An old car mat under your sewing machine foot pedal will keep it from traveling.

When doing needle turn applique, use a round wooden toothpick to turn the fabric. The roughness of the wood snags those little tiny, short, fibers and rolls that fabric right under. Then you can do the needlework.

If you are right-handed, hold the applique piece down with your left thumb and applique counter-clockwise around the applique piece (do the opposite if you are left-handed).

A grapefruit spoon is useful in pinning a large quilt. Just put it under the pin part and close the pin. Saves on fingers.

When sewing together a block with a lot of pieces use removable stickers or Post-It notes to number the pieces.

Use a fold-up, wooden, laundry rack for organizing your strips for a project.

If you are unsure of the relationship between the fabrics you have chosen, photocopy them. You will easily be able to determine the intensity of each fabric when it is in gray scale.

Before you sew on your quilt label, tuck some fabric scraps from the quilt between the label and the quilt then stitch your label on. This way, the fabric scraps get relatively the same amount of wear and tear and washing as the rest of the quilt so you will always have the perfect repair fabrics right with the quilt if ever needed.

To keep rulers from slipping, apply a dab of clear nail polish to the underside of the ruler, then sprinkle the dab with salt and let it dry. Grips without bulk.

Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them all yourself.

Did you know DMC floss has a directional twist? So if you thread your needle from the other end of DMC floss it won't tangle. This works with separating the strands, too. Pulling from one end causes tangles. The other way it comes apart really easily.

Does your back ache after a cutting session on a too low table?  Raise it by using Bed Risers, available in most Bed and Bath stores.

I like to mark my quilts with the water soluble markers. I keep a glass of water and a hefty watercolor paint brush handy to paint out the marks. I even use these markers to mark the lines for HST's and just swipe the lines before I press them. I've never had the lines show up again.

All of that fabric that you buy, you have one yard here and two yards here... and even 1/2 yard here and there, it gets all piled up and you cant tell what you have anymore... one easy way to organize your stash is to take your fabric like it comes off the bolt folded and use your ruler (mine is 5 X 24) you roll your fabric around your ruler until its all 5 inches wide, then you slide out your ruler and fold it in half length wise and you have a perfect stackable fabric, no matter how many yards you have of it. Then your fabric can sit on the shelf and you can see what you have!! Made my shelf so organized its GREAT!!

I took apart a wooden snap type clothes pin and use one of the halves to press seams. It has a beveled edge so it works great!

Used, clean baby food jars work wonders for holding small items such as pins, bobbins and buttons. To fancy up the jar you can paint it or just simply tie/glue on a pretty fabric scrap to the lid. You can also turn the top of the jar into a pin cushion by stuffing batting or a half round floral foam under the lid before you tie/glue it down.

I have taken an old prescription bottle and drilled a small hole in the top. These are the kid safe ones. When I break a needle or have to replace a dull needle I just drop the old needle into that bottle.

Store small projects in decorative tins or hatboxes - they blend with your decor as well as serve for extra storage!

An over the door towel rack in your sewing room makes the perfect spot to hang cut strips, or binding sort by color and no wrinkles! I purchased a little metal towel rack, the kind used to display guest towels in the bath.

Use one of those wine charms you see everywhere now to identify your scissors when you take them to classes - just hook it on.

Take a small brown bag like you would use for lunches. Fold a cuff down toward the outside about 1 1/2 inch TWICE. This gives the bag stability. Tape one wide edge of the bag opening on the front of your sewing table just to the right of the throat of your machine. As you sew it is easy to drop snips of thread, bits of scrap fabric and fuzz into the bag. No cleaning up the floor! Especially handy for when you are paper-piecing!

Use a door hole peeper to view your blocks or entire quilt. Adds distance and perspective, which helps with color choices, values, etc. I like the extra large peepers from Home Depot best.

Use a design wall........a flannel backed tablecloth is my favorite. I have them stacked 6 deep on the wall to hold my quilts in progress. You can roll them up to take along to class or to sew with a friend, very portable if you don't have a permanent place to keep one up. Nothing beats viewing your blocks or entire quilt from a vertical view point.

Use a stiletto to hold down your fabrics as they approach and go under the presser foot. You will find your seam allowances will be that perfect 1/4 inch from the start of the seam all the way through the end. 

If you're running out of wall space to hang your wall hangings, get two wreath holders and hang from your door and run a dole rod thru your wall hanging and hang in place. It makes a great space to hang different seasons wall hangings. 

When possible press your blocks and quilt rows with opposing seams. When piecing the blocks into rows the opposing seams just nestle together and the seams match up beautifully and there is no bulky seam to sew over. 

I use the hard plastic from Bacon packages to use for templates! Of course, after I wash it!